Before arriving in Pogradec, I’d read reviews describing it as “boring.” One blog even focused almost entirely on a dead dog they’d seen.
After spending six weeks living there as a family of five, I genuinely felt like we had visited a completely different place.
So I wanted to set the record straight.
Pogradec isn’t somewhere you visit to tick off famous landmarks. It’s somewhere you experience. Life revolves around Lake Ohrid, the surrounding mountains, long evenings on the promenade and a slower pace that quickly becomes addictive.
If you’re looking for nightclubs and shopping centres, Pogradec probably isn’t for you.
But if you love walking, cycling, swimming, hiking, good food and seeing everyday Albanian life, I think you’ll understand why our children still ask when we’re going back.
We’re currently travelling full-time as a family of five, combining travel with worldschooling our children while running our online business remotely. After spending time in Tirana and Golem, we wanted somewhere that felt like the real Albania while still having everything we needed for family life.
Pogradec turned out to be exactly that.
You can read more about our family travels and worldschooling adventures on our website, A Little More Outdoor.
Your Quick Accommodation Guide
Want to book now? Start here. Then save this guide for later—we’ve packed in 6 weeks of exploring to help you make the most of your trip.
| Hotel | Best For | Beach | Unique Feature | Budget |
| Pogradec Lakeview Apartment | Families (including larger families) | Direct Access | 2 bedrooms, kitchen, fun kids room, amazing views | ££ |
| Vila Topciu | Couples/small families | Less than 5-minute walk | Insane value, garden view, small apartment with everything you need | £ |
| Hotel Enkelana | Couples/small families | Own Beach | All the luxuries, pool, Jacuzzi bathtubs, private beach | £££ |
| Hotel Victoria | Couples/families with older children | Private Beach | Albanian gem on the lake with mountain backdrop | £££ |
| Guest’s Apartment | All | Less than 5-Minute walk | Newly renovated family suites at great prices | £ |
Getting to Pogradec
Most visitors arrive by flying into Tirana before making the two and a half hour journey inland to Lake Ohrid.
Like us, you could also spend a few days exploring the Albanian Riviera before heading inland. We travelled from Golem, and the drive through the mountains was spectacular, with every corner revealing another incredible view.
We’d heard plenty of stories about driving in Albania, so we decided against hiring a car. Looking back, we probably would. Apart from the lively traffic around Tirana and one mountain road that was being repaired, we found the roads perfectly manageable.
If we returned tomorrow, we’d happily hire a car ourselves.
Our First Impressions
We arrived at the end of May on one of the stormiest days of our trip. Despite the weather, we couldn’t have been made to feel more welcome.
Our host greeted us with fresh fruit, cake, local wine and bicycles for the whole family before simply saying, “If you need anything, just ask.”
That warmth summed up our entire stay.
Whether it was chatting with locals over coffee, friendly restaurant staff remembering us after a couple of visits or simply people smiling as we passed, Pogradec felt welcoming from the very beginning.
Then came the question everyone asked us…
How do you spend six weeks in one place without a car?
The time flew by. Here are a few of the things that kept us entertained:
One place we found ourselves returning to again and again was Drilon National Park.
The crystal-clear springs, little wooden bridges and peaceful waterways make it one of the most relaxing places around Lake Ohrid.
Some days we’d walk and others we’d cycle.
Sometimes we just sat by the water while the children explored.
It became one of those places that never really lost its appeal.
We found ourselves returning whenever we wanted to slow down. The shade from the trees, the cool breeze off the springs and the peaceful atmosphere made it the perfect escape from the busier parts of town.
Cycle to Tushemisht
Our host lent us bicycles, so we made the short ride to Tushemisht several times. There are also plenty of places to hire bikes if this is something you want to do.
The village feels wonderfully peaceful, with cobbled streets, streams running between houses and beautiful views across the lake. Loads of cute restaurants with natural springs running alongside you as you eat.
It was one of our favourite places to slow down and simply wander.
Hike to Pogradec Castle
If you’re happy to climb uphill, don’t miss the walk to the castle ruins above the town.
The ruins themselves are interesting, but the real reward is the panoramic view across Lake Ohrid and the surrounding mountains.
Take some water and give yourself time to enjoy it.
Walk the Chestnut Trail
If there’s one walk I’d recommend that many visitors probably miss, it’s the Chestnut Trail.
This ended up being one of our favourite days.
The trail passes through small Albanian villages where everyday life carries on much as it always has. You’ll see people tending gardens, working the land and chatting outside their homes.
Eventually you’re rewarded with incredible views across the lake.
The children loved climbing on the rocks near the church at the top while we simply took in the scenery.
It’s one of those walks that shows you far more than just nature.
Visit St Naum Monastery
One day we took a taxi across the border into North Macedonia to visit St Naum Monastery.
For our children, crossing an international border and getting their passports stamped was an adventure in itself.
Rather than taking another taxi back, we walked all the way back to Pogradec along the lakeside.
It made for one of our favourite family days. It is not a shaded walk though, so I wouldn’t recommend this mid-season. Also, there is a very direct route back along a nature path next to the army base camp. The staff were very helpful in making sure we took the right route even though it is not well signposted.
Swimming in Lake Ohrid
As soon as the weather warmed up, swimming became part of our daily routine. Each stretch of beach somehow felt like a completely different day out. The water was surprisingly warm, shallow enough for children and incredibly clear. Even our baby loved splashing in the lake.
The older children spent hours jumping from the platforms at the end of the piers, and of course we had to join them!
We also hired a pedalo for just 500 lek, which turned into one of those simple family memories everyone still talks about. The lake was flat for about 95% of our stay, but on our pedalo day the waves were crashing over the side. Definitely made it feel more of an adventure. Although I must add we took our own buoyancy aid for our baby. These would not have been available to hire. (It has been used loads on our travels, definitely an important item to pack for families with little people).
The beaches aren’t perfect. We did notice some litter and occasional broken glass, although the organised beaches with sun loungers were generally kept much cleaner.
Evenings Along the Promenade
One of my favourite memories wasn’t an attraction at all. It was simply walking along the lakeside promenade each evening. As summer arrived, the roses burst into bloom, filling the air with an incredible scent. Music drifted from nearby cafés. The fountains sparkled.
Families came out for their evening walks.
As the sun disappeared behind the mountains, the whole atmosphere gave us those special moments that you only get when you’re truly living.
It’s difficult to explain, but it’s one of those places that stays with you long after you’ve left.
Keeping Active
One surprise was the outdoor gym beside the lake.
It was one of the best-equipped public gyms we’ve come across during our travels, and we managed to fit in several workouts during our stay.
Combined with the walking, cycling and swimming, Pogradec became one of the easiest places we’ve found to stay active as a family.
Watching Local Life
During our stay, we were lucky enough to catch the local triathlon. Standing alongside local families, cheering on the athletes, made us feel like we were part of everyday life rather than just passing through as tourists.
Throughout our time in Ohrid, we also stumbled across performances at the Ancient Theatre (Odeon), food and film festivals, weddings, Children’s Day celebrations, the opening of the tourist season, and sporting events taking place all around the lake.
Those unexpected moments are often the ones we remember most. In fact, watching the triathlon has even got me thinking about signing up for it next year!
Where to Eat in Pogradec
One thing we’ll definitely miss is the food.
The prices were excellent, the staff were consistently friendly, and we rarely had a disappointing meal.
Some of our favourites included:
- Apokolips for quick, tasty fast food.
- Restorant Sofra for its peaceful garden, home-grown vegetables and fresh local dishes.
- Restorant Cavos for pizza
- Restaurant Rosa e Tymosur for one of the best meals we had during our stay. Their duck was fantastic and they even served gluten-free pasta with a delicious duck ragù.
- Rusi Gelato became a regular stop thanks to the incredibly friendly staff and excellent cakes.
- Happy Corner was perfect whenever the children wanted an ice cream.
I’m gluten-free, and although very few menus specifically mentioned gluten-free options, almost every restaurant was happy to help. I ate out regularly throughout our stay without any problems. You will even find a bakery that does the best pa gluten bread I have ever tasted.
Where We Stayed
We stayed in this apartment for the full six weeks, and we’d happily stay there again.
Although we only slept there, we also visited several nearby hotels for meals and to enjoy their facilities, so I’ll include our favourite accommodation options below if you’re deciding where to stay.
Best for families
Great location, loads of space for all of the family and incredible views.
Best for couples
Private beach, luxury and great location.
Best budget options
There are plenty of budget accommodation options in Pogradec, and I’d happily choose one myself. If you’re looking to keep costs down, I’d recommend saving money on where you stay so you can spend more on eating out, exploring the area, and making the most of everything the region has to offer.
AOB Worldschooling and Working
Worldschooling in Pogradec
Travelling full-time doesn’t mean our children stop learning. Like everywhere we visit, Pogradec became our classroom.
History, geography, wildlife, languages, cultures, currency and everyday life all became part of their education in ways where we are all fully immersed and learning about the real world, real people and lived experience.
If you’re curious about how we combine travel with education, you can read more in our guide to worldschooling.
Working Online
Being able to work online has completely changed how our family travels and allows us to spend longer getting to know places rather than rushing through them.
If you’re interested, we’ve shared more about how we built a business that fits around family life here.
Is Pogradec Worth Visiting?
Yes, yes and yes.
Are there stray dogs? Yes.
Did we occasionally see dead wildlife? Also yes, but that has been true of most places we’ve visited.
What we remember is something entirely different.
- The warmth of the people.
- The evenings beside the lake.
- Children laughing as they jumped into the water.
- Loads of time in nature.
- Mountain walks with breathtaking views.
- Coffee with locals.
- Fresh affordable food.
- Family time to connect.
- Learning about life as an Albanian.
If you’re expecting a city packed with tourist attractions, Pogradec may not be for you. Still, if you’re looking for somewhere to slow down, enjoy nature and experience everyday Albanian life, I think you’ll struggle to find somewhere better.
We certainly can’t wait to return.
