If you’re looking for Albanian beaches close to Tirana Airport, but don’t want to head far south to the busy tourist hotspots, Qerret and Golem might surprise you — they certainly surprised us.
We spent four weeks here as a family in April and May, and what started as a slightly eerie, “have we made a mistake?” arrival turned into one of our favourite slow beach stays in Albania.
This is what it’s really like to stay in Qerret and Golem in shoulder season, with kids, good food, and plenty of beach days.
Our First Impression: “Should We Leave?”
We arrived in Qerret on a rainy April afternoon.
Our apartment was great value, and we’d chosen the area because we wanted to explore Albanian beaches without travelling too far south — my parents were flying in to see us for the first time in nine weeks, and staying close to Tirana airport felt sensible.
But as we walked along the beach that first day, it felt abandoned. Eerie. Almost apocalyptic.
Long stretches of white sand. Empty umbrellas and sunbeds. A bunker on the shore. No people. No noise. Just grey skies and waves.
I instantly felt like we should leave.
So we walked towards Golem, hoping to find signs of life.
The Café That Changed Everything
We eventually found a café open because the kids spotted toys outside. A friendly family welcomed us in, and we ordered a bean soup, a meat platter, and fresh salads — simple, delicious, and incredibly good value.
Food fixes a lot of feelings when you travel.
Things felt brighter.
But as we walked back along that empty shoreline, we genuinely wondered how on earth we were going to spend four weeks here.
What We Didn’t Realise About Qerret in April
What we didn’t understand yet is this: Qerret and Golem wake up very quickly after mid-April.
Every single day, new cafés opened, restaurants started setting up, more people appeared, the sun came out, and the beaches transformed.
By May, it felt like a completely different place.
The Beaches Are Incredible (And Surprisingly Quiet)
The sand in Qerret is unbelievably soft — almost bouncy under your feet.
The sea was warm enough for swimming. The sunsets drop perfectly into the Adriatic and became one of our favourite evening rituals. A beautiful close to each day.
Despite development and construction in places, the coastline is long, open, and never felt crowded — especially compared to southern Albania.
The street dogs looked intimidating at first, but were completely uninterested in us.
Cafés, Parks & Restaurants Everywhere (Perfect With Kids)
One of the best surprises was how many cafés had play parks attached. The kids would play while we drank coffee.
Food options are everywhere, ranging from very affordable to more premium. Most menus include fresh fish, salads and soups, risottos, pizza, grilled meats, and seafood.
As a coeliac, I found it very easy to eat gluten-free here.
Our Favourite Places to Eat
- Daily Taste — we ate here constantly. Huge menu from budget sandwiches and pizza to incredible shrimp dishes.
- London Restaurant — great atmosphere and varied menu.
- Sirena Agroturizem — where we celebrated our son’s 1st birthday. A special place.
- Arome Deti Restaurant — amazing seafood and salads under the pine trees with a beautiful view.
- The gluten-free pancake and waffle house next to Daily Taste is a rare and brilliant find.
Where to Stay in Qerret & Golem
We stayed in an apartment because we travel long-term and like space to cook, but we regularly used hotel facilities for coffee and breakfast.
Brilliant Hotel & SPA
Friendly staff, great bar for morning coffee, and, according to the kids, the best park in Golem. Excellent buffet breakfast.
Gloria Palace Hotel & SPA
Lovely beachfront covered seating area that gives you that proper holiday feel. Fantastic breakfast buffet.
Comfort Hotel
We didn’t stay, but it looked like it had one of the best outdoor pools for children.
Easy Walks & Day Trips
From Qerret and Golem, you can walk along the river towards Kavajë, take a taxi to Durrës, walk on the beaches between Qerret and Golem, visit inland agrotourism restaurants, and spend full days doing nothing but beach games and swimming.
Why Qerret Is a Great Choice for a Family Beach Holiday
Qerret and Golem are ideal if you want beaches close to Tirana Airport, fewer international tourists and more locals, affordable food and accommodation, great cafés and restaurants, a relaxed shoulder-season beach destination, easy day trips to other cities, soft sand, warm sea, and beautiful sunsets.
Peak season here is June to September, but we loved being there until the end of May, when it felt alive but never busy.
Would We Come Back?
Yes, but also we have a whole world to explore.
In fact, the kids have asked to go back.
What started as “should we leave?” turned into “we’re sad to go.”
And that’s often how the best travel experiences begin.
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